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Malaysia Travelogue #1/4
1969~1973
Kuala Lumpur
Subang International Airport
In May 1969, I had the opportunity to come to Kuala Lumpur on a business trip from Singapore, where I was stationed. It’s been 7 years since I’ve been to Malaysia.
Last time, I took a sightseeing overland route by car, but this time I took an air route for work meeting.
The terminal building at Subang Airport on arrival was brand new.
The arrival hall and departure lobby were naturally ventilated halls without air conditioning.
Compared to the airport terminal building in Singapore, it has a much more modern design, and I was impressed.
This airport is a memorable to me as I used frequently used it for business trips until 1998, when the new airport KLIA opened with a terminal building designed by Kisho Kurokawa.

Subang International Airport, Kuala Lumpur
Photo by author, 1969
Approach to Subang International Airport
The approach to Subang Airport was through a rubber forest plantation, and on the way there were durian vendors setting up stall at road side.
On the way back, two of my friends and I decided to buy a good amount of it as a souvenir for Singapore.
When I arrived at the airport check-in, I found out that durian was strictly prohibited from being carried on board.
We ate as much as we could eat in the corner of the lobby, but there was still a lot left, so I went to the airport staff’s office and gave them the leftovers, which they were very happy about.

Access road to Subang International Airport
Photo by author, 1969
Federal Hotel Kuala Lumpur
From Subang Airport, I took a taxi to the Federal Hotel, KL. I had a business meeting with the owner of the hotel.

Federal Hotel, Kuala Lumpur, 1969
Photo by author, 1969

Federal Hotel, Kuala Lumpur, 1969
Photo by author, 1969

Federal Hotel, Kuala Lumpur, 1969
Photo by author, 1969

Federal Hotel, Kuala Lumpur, 1969
Photo by author, 1969
Race riots! And martial law ! Escape to Singapore ! !
The next day, the hotel manager told me not to go outside the hotel.
When I asked why, he said that a riot had broken out somewhere in the city.
I would have to stay in my hotel room.
Looking down outside the window on a high floor of the hotel, I saw no one on the street. As I continued to look outside, I saw soldiers with guns on the street.
Certainly, this is not a simple matter. The riot in the city center was a racial riot that exposed the resentment that had been simmering for years between Malays and Chinese.
The main street facing the hotel is called Bukit Bintang, which is the busiest area in Kuala Lumpur.
After martial law was imposed, road was quiet on May 19, as shown in the photo.

Jalan Bukit Bintang under martial law, Kuala Lumpur, 1969.
On the upper left, the revolving restaurant of the Federal Hotel
Stuck in the hotel
The manager of the Federal Hotel informed me that there was a race riot in Kuala Lumpur and that I should stay at the hotel and not go out.
Looking out the window of my hotel room at the outdoor parking lot, I saw soldiers with guns and helmets. It was an ominous sight.

Federal Hotel, parking lot, Photo by author, 1969
Escape to Singapore !
A few days later, the unrest gradually subsided, and I found time to flee Kuala Lumpur and return to Singapore, between the resurgence of riots.
I had heard that some Chinese groups in Singapore were planning to retaliate against the Malays, but a stern warning from the top of the government prevented the riots from becoming large-scale, and the tension slowly returned to a state of calm.
If the riots had spread between the two countries at this time, the economic losses would have been immeasurable.
(According to media reports, 196 people were killed and more than 350 injured on the Malaysian side in the riots.)
Much later, an architect I knew in Kuala Lumpur told me about the massacre he had witnessed. It’s such a brutal scene that I won’t write about it here.
Streets of Kuala Lumpur, around 1973
(Three-four years after the race riots)
Kuala Lumpur’s city block is densely populated with rusted tin roofs.

Photo by author, around 1973
Prisons in the city.
(around 1973)
Pudu Prison can be seen at the top of the photo.
It is now a huge shopping mall that is similar to LaLaport (Japan largest shopping center).
If you look at this photo of Kuala Lumpur in the early 1970s, you can see that the city center was full of greenery.

Photo by author, around 1973
Luxury hotels in Kuala Lumpur that existed in 1973
1. Former Hilton Hotel Kuala Lumpur
(around 1973)
The first five-star hotel built and opened in Kuala Lumpur.
It was located on Jalan Sultan Ismail. The location was the uptown district on the plateau, and luxury hotels were built one after another on this street.
At the main entrance of the hotel, there is a series of Malay-style roofs.

Photo by author, around 1973
Malay style roof join together.

Photo by author, around 1973
Driveway under the Malay-style joint roof.

Photo by author, around 1973
Lobby. The brown tones of the furniture match the tones of the tropical woods.

Photo by author, around 1973
On the upper floors there is a stylish bar with a design theme based on the paddock stables at a horse racing track, which I often visited whenever I had business trips to Kuala Lumpur.
2. Holiday Inn Kuala Lumpur
(around 1973)
It was located in Jalan Perak. It has been demolished and no longer exists.

Photo by author, around 1973
This poolside area is open and spacious, so I often visited here during my breaks from work.

Photo by author, around 1973
3.Equatorial Hotel Kuala Lumpur
(around 1973)
The Equatorial Hotel on Jalan Sultan Ismail is nearing completion.
I received an order from the owner to design the hotel’s interior and a Japanese restaurant, and I ended up visiting Kuala Lumpur frequently for meeting.

Photo by author, around 1973
Jalan Sultan Ismail 50-odd years later. A public transport railway bridge hangs over the street. The red arrow is a rebuilt Equatorial hotel.

Source: 2022 GOOGLE EARTH
4. The PARKROYAL Collection
(around 1973)
Looking out the window of the Federal Hotel guest room, I can see the PARKROYAL Collection hotel was about to be completed.|
In the foreground was a vast, levelled vacant lot.
Currently, this area is a prime locatio and is lined with buildings.
Also, to the left of the hotel, Lot Ten, which will later house Isetan dept store, will be built.
If you look at this photo of Kuala Lumpur in the early 1970s, you can see that the city center was full of greenery.

Photo by author, around 1973